WO2000076358A1 - Method for permanent hair transformation and implementing device - Google Patents

Method for permanent hair transformation and implementing device Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2000076358A1
WO2000076358A1 PCT/FR2000/001614 FR0001614W WO0076358A1 WO 2000076358 A1 WO2000076358 A1 WO 2000076358A1 FR 0001614 W FR0001614 W FR 0001614W WO 0076358 A1 WO0076358 A1 WO 0076358A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
wick
fixing means
hair
chosen
fixing
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/FR2000/001614
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Ly Lan N'guyen
Anne Sabbagh
Vincent De Laforcade
Charlotte Reedtz
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to JP2001502712A priority Critical patent/JP2003502081A/en
Priority to AU55417/00A priority patent/AU5541700A/en
Priority to EP00940489A priority patent/EP1191857A1/en
Publication of WO2000076358A1 publication Critical patent/WO2000076358A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D2/00Hair-curling or hair-waving appliances ; Appliances for hair dressing treatment not otherwise provided for
    • A45D2/02Hair winders or hair curlers for use substantially perpendicular to the scalp, i.e. steep-curlers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D7/00Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
    • A45D7/04Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair chemical
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D2/00Hair-curling or hair-waving appliances ; Appliances for hair dressing treatment not otherwise provided for
    • A45D2/02Hair winders or hair curlers for use substantially perpendicular to the scalp, i.e. steep-curlers
    • A45D2002/025Hair winders or hair curlers for use substantially perpendicular to the scalp, i.e. steep-curlers lengthwise expandable, collapsible or adjustable, e.g. telescopic
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45DHAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D7/00Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
    • A45D2007/002Processes of dressing hair
    • A45D2007/004Processes of dressing hair for braiding, twisting, locking, wrapping or beading hair

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a permanent hair reshaping process as well as a device for its implementation.
  • filiform material means a preferably flexible element, of any chemical constitution having a fine and elongated shape, the section of which can be of various shape and in particular circular.
  • compositions of perms it is difficult to apply thickened compositions of perms to hair wound on curlers, due to the problems of penetration of the product to the tip of the hair. Indeed, if the composition crosses well the first two or three outer turns of the winding, it is not the same when it approaches the curler. As a result, the interior turns often receive little composition, which is very detrimental for the quality of the perm.
  • the subject of the invention is a process for permanent deformation of the hair, in particular long or very long hair, using a reducing composition and a perm fixing composition, characterized in that it comprises the operations consisting in:
  • the wick is a single-strand wick and the filiform material is wound in a spiral around this wick.
  • the wick is a wick with two strands and a mat is produced with these two strands and the filiform material.
  • the wick is twisted beforehand.
  • the filiform material can also consist of several nested materials, one of which can be heated.
  • the diameter of the filiform material is between 0.1 mm and 80 mm, and preferably between 0.2 and 30 mm.
  • This threadlike material can be solid or hollow.
  • a synthetic material is used such as plastics, such as for example polyethylenes, polypropylenes or polyamides
  • a knot, clip, elastic or pliers is advantageously used as a means of attachment.
  • the attachment means can be isolated from the hair by interposing a material such as for example a sheet of aluminum foil or point paper.
  • the attachment means may or may not be integral with the filiform material.
  • the reducing composition comprises at least one thiol-reducing agent chosen from thioglycolic acid. thiolactic acid, cysteine, cysteamine and glycerol thioglycolate
  • the fixing composition advantageously comprises at least one oxidizing agent chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates
  • the reducing composition also advantageously comprises at least one alkaline agent, which can in particular be chosen from ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, t ⁇ ethanolamine, isopropanolamine, 1,3-propanediamine, an alkali bicarbonate carbonate or ammonium, an organic carbonate such as guanidine carbonate or an alkali hydroxide, used alone or as a mixture
  • alkaline agent which can in particular be chosen from ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, t ⁇ ethanolamine, isopropanolamine, 1,3-propanediamine, an alkali bicarbonate carbonate or ammonium, an organic carbonate such as guanidine carbonate or an alkali hydroxide, used alone or as a mixture
  • the oxidizing or reducing compositions preferably additionally contain additives chosen from surfactants, silicones, waxes, polymers, in particular cationic polymers, thickeners, swelling and penetration agents, fatty alcohols, derivatives lanolin, ceramides,
  • the reducing composition can be applied and then the fixing composition after having shaped the hair.
  • the reducing composition can also be applied before shaping the hair.
  • a device for producing curls in the hair comprising a) a first fixing means 1.5 to make the device integral with a wick at a first point, b) a winding support 2,6, of elongated shape, and around which said wick is intended to be wound a first end of said winding support being integral with the first fixing moven 1,5, c) a second fixing moven 3 7 intended for hanging the device at a second point on said wick, said first and second attachment points delimiting a zone for winding the wick on said support
  • the second fixing means is secured to a second end of the winding support 2,6
  • the winding support 2, 6 preferably consists of a threadlike element, in particular a wire made of thermoplastic material. Alternatively, a cord, a hollow tube or a chain is used
  • the device comprises immobilization means 4, in particular a wire clamp, capable of making it possible to immobilize the second fixing means along the wick, relative to the first, said immobilization means 4 being designed so as to immobilize the second fixing means at a distance from the first chosen according to the degree of winding sought.
  • immobilization means 4 in particular a wire clamp, capable of making it possible to immobilize the second fixing means along the wick, relative to the first, said immobilization means 4 being designed so as to immobilize the second fixing means at a distance from the first chosen according to the degree of winding sought.
  • Said first 1 and second 3 fastening means may consist of a non-elastically deformable element reversibly, said deformable element consisting of a wire, in particular of a metal such as copper Said deformable element is advantageously disposed at the inside of an element made of flexible material, in particular elastically deformable foam. Such foam makes it possible to prevent the wick from being marked by the metal wire.
  • the device according to the invention comprises a flexible wire configured so as to define a variable area loop constituting the first fixing means 5, said flexible wire sliding inside a tubular element forming said supporting winding 6 , so as to modify the section of said loop, a member 7 slidably mounted on said tubular element constituting the second fixing means
  • said sliding-mounted member 7 is designed so that it can be immobilized on the tubular element 6 at a distance from the first fixing means chosen as a function of the degree of winding sought.
  • the immobilization of the sliding member 7 is advantageously made by clamping the latter on the tubular element 6
  • Figures 1, 2, 3 4 describe a non-limiting example of embodiment of the device according to the invention and its implementation
  • FIG. 1 shows a first device according to a particular embodiment of the invention
  • FIG. 2 shows a sectional view of a fastening means of this first device
  • FIG. 3 illustrates the use of a second device according to a particular embodiment of the invention
  • FIG. 1 represents a device according to a particular embodiment of the invention II comprises a means of fixing 1 to a first end of a wire 2, and another means of fixing 3, to a second end of the wire, opposite to the first
  • the second fixing means is identical to the first means 1
  • the fixing means 1 is composed of a split foam block, in particular obtained from a closed cell polymer foam 1 1 and a copper wire 1 2 placed inside the foam block The ends 1 2 1 and 1 2 2 of the copper wire have been bent over themselves, so as to form a hook capable of allowing the fixing of one end wire 2 correspondent
  • an elongated piece of foam of various section (round, square, polygonal, of various section) is used in which a longitudinal slit extending from an external surface of the block is practiced. foam to its longitudinal axis Is introduced to the hot melt glue, or contacting in this slot and has copper rod 1 2 in the upturned ends
  • the adhesive prevents the removal of the copper part and the introduction of permanently liquid, which could react with the copper.
  • the end 2 of 1.2 the copper rod is connected to the wire by a knot, by pinching, or by gluing or welding
  • the device works as follows
  • a wick is separated and pinched with the end 1 folded in half.
  • the internal copper wire keeps the fold which is given to it The foam prevents the hair from being marked by the fixing means
  • the wire 2 being of greater length than the length of the wick (it can be provided between 20 and 100 cm, or even more), it can be grasped in the vicinity of the place marked 2a, and bring up the second fixing means in direction of the first, so as to cause the formation of swirls (Figure 3c) which will be soaked with product for perm
  • a wire clamp 4 is used so as to avoid an unexpected descent of the fixing means 3 along the wire, during the manipulations on the volutes of hair, and therefore, an unwinding of the lock being treated.
  • FIG. 4a shows a second embodiment of a device according to the invention comprising a first fastening means 5 formed by a flexible wire section defining a variable loop and a winding support 6 formed by a tubular member, the flexible wire sliding inside the tubular element 6 when an operator pulls on the end of the flexible wire opposite the loop
  • Figure 4c shows the use of a clip 7 slidably mounted and immobilized on the tubular element 6 depending on the degree of winding sought
  • the method according to the invention is implemented on a person with long natural hair, 40 cm in length

Abstract

The invention concerns a device for making curls in the hair comprising: (a) first fixing means (1, 5) to couple the device with a lock of hair in a first point; (b) a curling support (2, 6) elongated in shape, and around which said lock of hair is to be curled, one first end of said curling support being integral with the first fixing means (1, 5); (c) second fixing means (3, 7) designed to attach the device in a second point of said hair lock, said first and second fixing points defining a curling zone of the hair lock on said support.

Description

PROCEDE DE DEFORMATION PERMANENTE DES CHEVEUX ET DISPOSITIF METHOD FOR PERMANENT DEFORMATION OF HAIR AND DEVICE
POUR SA MISE EN OEUVREFOR ITS IMPLEMENTATION
L'invention a pour objet un procédé de déformation permanente des cheveux ainsi qu'un dispositif pour sa mise en œuvre.The invention relates to a permanent hair reshaping process as well as a device for its implementation.
Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par « matériau filiforme », un élément de préférence souple, de constitution chimique quelconque ayant une forme fine et allongée, dont la section peut être de forme diverse et notamment circulaire.For the purposes of the present invention, the term "filiform material" means a preferably flexible element, of any chemical constitution having a fine and elongated shape, the section of which can be of various shape and in particular circular.
Il est connu de donner une forme aux cheveux grâce à l'utilisation de bigoudis. Toutefois, l'étape d'enroulement des cheveux sur bigoudi est souvent longue et fastidieuse, compte tenu de leur nombre élevé. Sur des cheveux longs, le travail est encore plus long et difficile, car il est souvent nécessaire d'utiliser des techniques complexes de double ou triple enroulement, pour pouvoir obtenir un résultat de frisure suffisant.It is known to shape the hair through the use of curlers. However, the step of winding the hair curler is often long and tedious, given their high number. On long hair, the work is even longer and more difficult, because it is often necessary to use complex double or triple coiling techniques, in order to be able to obtain a sufficient crimping result.
De plus, il est difficile d'appliquer des compositions épaissies de permanentes sur des cheveux enroulés sur bigoudis, en raison des problèmes de pénétration du produit jusqu'à la pointe des cheveux. En effet, si la composition traverse bien les deux ou trois premières spires extérieures de l'enroulement, il n'en est pas de même lorsqu'elle se rapproche du bigoudi. De ce fait, les spires intérieures ne reçoivent souvent que peu de composition, ce qui est très préjudiciable pour la qualité de la permanente.In addition, it is difficult to apply thickened compositions of perms to hair wound on curlers, due to the problems of penetration of the product to the tip of the hair. Indeed, if the composition crosses well the first two or three outer turns of the winding, it is not the same when it approaches the curler. As a result, the interior turns often receive little composition, which is very detrimental for the quality of the perm.
II existe donc un besoin de trouver un procédé de déformation permanente des cheveux qui, non seulement soit plus rapide et plus simple à mettre en œuvre que les procédés actuels, mais avec lequel il soit en outre possible d'utiliser toutes les formes galéniques de compositions réductrices ou oxydantes, en paπiculier des solutions épaissies.There is therefore a need to find a method for permanent deformation of the hair which, not only is faster and simpler to implement than current methods, but with which it is also possible to use all the galenical forms of compositions. reducing or oxidizing, in particular thickened solutions.
L'invention a pour objet un procédé de déformation permanente des cheveux, en particulier des cheveux longs ou très longs, utilisant une composition réductrice et une composition fixatrice de permanente, caractérisé par le fait qu'il comprend les opérations consistant à :The subject of the invention is a process for permanent deformation of the hair, in particular long or very long hair, using a reducing composition and a perm fixing composition, characterized in that it comprises the operations consisting in:
- séparer les cheveux en mèches, et pour chaque mèche,- separate the hair into strands, and for each strand,
- attacher au moins un matériau filiforme en amont sur la mèche grâce à un moyen d'attache,- attach at least one thread-like material upstream to the wick by means of attachment,
- éventuellement, diviser la mèche en brins,- optionally, divide the wick into strands,
- disposer le matériau filiforme autour de la mèche mono- ou multibrins et, ceci sur une longueur « x »,- arrange the filiform material around the single or multi-strand drill bit and this over a length "x",
- maintenir le matériau filiforme fixe et tendu en aval de la mèche et repousser la mèche mono- ou multibrins vers le point d'attache en amont en la faisant glisser, le long du matériau filiforme, sur ladite longueur « x »,- keep the filiform material fixed and taut downstream of the wick and push the single or multi-strand wick towards the attachment point upstream by sliding it, along the filiform material, over said length "x",
- maintenir la mèche ainsi repoussée par un second moyen d'attache.- keep the wick thus repelled by a second attachment means.
Selon un premier mode avantageux de réalisation du procédé selon l'invention, la mèche est une mèche monobrin et on enroule en spirale le matériau filiforme autour de cette mèche.According to a first advantageous embodiment of the method according to the invention, the wick is a single-strand wick and the filiform material is wound in a spiral around this wick.
Selon un second mode de réalisation avantageux du procédé selon l'invention, la mèche est une mèche à deux brins et on réalise une natte avec ces deux brins et le matériau filiforme.According to a second advantageous embodiment of the method according to the invention, the wick is a wick with two strands and a mat is produced with these two strands and the filiform material.
Selon un autre mode de réalisation avantageux du procédé selon l'invention, la mèche est préalablement torsadée.According to another advantageous embodiment of the method according to the invention, the wick is twisted beforehand.
On peut utiliser toute sorte de matériau filiforme, tel que les fils, les ficelles, les cordes, les filins, les cordelettes, les câbles, les chaînes, les chaînettes, en matières naturelle, synthétique ou composite, et de préférence on utilise un fil.We can use any kind of filiform material, such as threads, strings, ropes, ropes, cords, cables, chains, chains, in natural, synthetic or composite materials, and preferably we use a thread .
Le matériau filiforme peut être également constitué de plusieurs matériaux imbriqués dont l'un peut être chauffant. Le diamètre du matériau filiforme est compris entre 0, 1 mm et 80 mm, et de préférence entre 0,2 et 30 mm. Ce matériau filiforme peut être plein ou creux. De préférence, on utilise un matériau synthétique tel que les matières plastiques, comme par exemple les polyéthylènes, les polypropylènes ou les polyamidesThe filiform material can also consist of several nested materials, one of which can be heated. The diameter of the filiform material is between 0.1 mm and 80 mm, and preferably between 0.2 and 30 mm. This threadlike material can be solid or hollow. Preferably, a synthetic material is used such as plastics, such as for example polyethylenes, polypropylenes or polyamides
Pour fixer la mèche en amont ou bloquer la mèche enroulée en aval, on utilise avantageusement, comme moyen d'attache, un nœud, un clip, un élastique ou une pinceTo fix the wick upstream or block the coiled wick downstream, a knot, clip, elastic or pliers is advantageously used as a means of attachment.
Les moyens d'attache peuvent être isoles du cheveu en intercalant un matériau tel que par exemple une feuille de papier aluminium ou de papier pointes Les moyens d'attache peuvent être solidaires ou non du matériau filiformeThe attachment means can be isolated from the hair by interposing a material such as for example a sheet of aluminum foil or point paper. The attachment means may or may not be integral with the filiform material.
Conformément au procédé selon l'invention, on peut utiliser toutes sortes de compositions réductrice et fixatrice, et par exemple, celles décrites dans les brevets européens EP 465 342, EP 440 547. EP 568 695, EP 636 358, EP 681 828 ou EP 723 772 appartenant à la Demanderesse ou dans ses demandes de brevet françaises publiées sous les numéro FR 2 773 071, FR 2 773 072 et FR 2 769 499According to the process according to the invention can be used all kinds of reducing and fixing compositions, for example, those described in European Patent EP 465 342, EP 440 547. EP 568 695, EP 636 358, EP 681 828 or EP 723,772 belonging to the Applicant or in its French patent applications published under the numbers FR 2 773 071, FR 2 773 072 and FR 2 769 499
Avantageusement la composition réductrice comprend au moins un agent réducteur thiolé choisi parmi l'acide thioglycolique. l'acide thiolactique, la cystéine, la cystéamine et le thioglycolate de glycérolAdvantageously, the reducing composition comprises at least one thiol-reducing agent chosen from thioglycolic acid. thiolactic acid, cysteine, cysteamine and glycerol thioglycolate
De même, la composition fixatrice comprend avantageusement au moins un agent oxydant choisi parmi le peroxyde d'hydrogène, le peroxyde d'urée, les bromates de métaux alcalins, les persels tels que les perborates et persulfatesLikewise, the fixing composition advantageously comprises at least one oxidizing agent chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates
La composition réductrice comprend en outre avantageusement au moins un agent alcalin, pouvant notamment être choisis parmi l'ammoniaque, la monoéthanolamme, la diéthanolamine, la tπéthanolamine, l'isopropanolamine, la propanediamιne-1,3, un carbonate de bicarbonate alcalin ou d'ammonium, un carbonate organique tel que le carbonate de guanidine ou encore un hydroxyde alcalin, utilisés seul ou en mélange Les compositions oxydantes ou réductrices contiennent, en outre, de préférence, des additifs choisis parmi les tensioactifs les sihcones, des cires, des polymères, notamment des polvmeres cationiques, des épaississants, des agents de gonflement et de pénétration, des alcools gras, des dérives de lanoline, des ceramides, des ingrédients actifs, des agents anti-chute anti-pelhculaires, des agents de mise en suspension, des agents séquestrants, des agents opacifiants, des colorants des filtres solaires si cones ou non des conservateurs des parfumsThe reducing composition also advantageously comprises at least one alkaline agent, which can in particular be chosen from ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, tπethanolamine, isopropanolamine, 1,3-propanediamine, an alkali bicarbonate carbonate or ammonium, an organic carbonate such as guanidine carbonate or an alkali hydroxide, used alone or as a mixture The oxidizing or reducing compositions preferably additionally contain additives chosen from surfactants, silicones, waxes, polymers, in particular cationic polymers, thickeners, swelling and penetration agents, fatty alcohols, derivatives lanolin, ceramides, active ingredients, anti-hair loss agents anti-pelh those, suspending agents, sequestering agents, opacifying agents, dyes of sun filters if cones or not perfume preservatives
On peut appliquer la composition réductrice puis la composition fixatrice après avoir mis en forme les cheveux Toutefois, la composition réductrice peut également être appliquée avant la mise en forme des cheveuxThe reducing composition can be applied and then the fixing composition after having shaped the hair. However, the reducing composition can also be applied before shaping the hair.
Grâce au procède selon l'invention, il suffit maintenant, par permanente, de réaliser quatre a huit mèches pour une tête, au eu de trente environ pour les procèdes classiques a bigoudis Ceci procure bien sûr un gain de temps considérable pour un coiffeurThanks to the process according to the invention, it is now sufficient, by permanent, to carry out four to eight wicks for a head, to the eu of about thirty for the traditional procedures with curlers This of course gets a considerable time saving for a hairdresser
Par ailleurs, il est maintenant possible, avec le procède décrit ci-dessus, d'obtenir une ondulation durable des cheveux, même s'ils sont longs, ce qui était difficile avec les procèdes classiques avec bigoudisFurthermore, it is now possible, with the method described above, to obtain a lasting waviness of the hair, even if it is long, which was difficult with the conventional procedures with curlers.
Enfin on peut réaliser, de façon ludique des frisures plus originales ou plus esthétiques que par le passe, en choisissant judicieusement par exemple l'épaisseur de la mèche, la distance entre les deux points d'attache du fil, le diamètre, le nombre d'éléments filiformes ou le nombre de brins et en disposant les brins de la manière qui convient autour de 1 élément filiformeFinally we can achieve, in a fun way more original or more aesthetic curls than in the past, by choosing judiciously for example the thickness of the wick, the distance between the two attachment points of the wire, the diameter, the number d '' filiform elements or the number of strands and arranging the strands in a suitable manner around 1 filiform element
Selon un autre aspect de l'invention, on réalise également un dispositif pour la réalisation de boucles dans la chevelure comprenant a) un premier moyen de fixation 1,5 pour rendre le dispositif solidaire d'une mèche en un premier point , b) un support d'enroulement 2,6, de forme allongée, et autour duquel ladite mèche est destinée a être enroulée une première extrémité dudit support d'enroulement étant solidaire du premier moven de fixation 1,5, c) un second moven de fixation 3 7 destine a l'accrochage du dispositif en un second point de ladite mèche, lesdits premier et second points de fixation délimitant une zone d'enroulement de la mèche sur ledit supportAccording to another aspect of the invention, there is also produced a device for producing curls in the hair comprising a) a first fixing means 1.5 to make the device integral with a wick at a first point, b) a winding support 2,6, of elongated shape, and around which said wick is intended to be wound a first end of said winding support being integral with the first fixing moven 1,5, c) a second fixing moven 3 7 intended for hanging the device at a second point on said wick, said first and second attachment points delimiting a zone for winding the wick on said support
De préférence, le second moyen de fixation est solidaire d'une seconde extrémité du support d'enroulement 2,6Preferably, the second fixing means is secured to a second end of the winding support 2,6
Le support d'enroulement 2, 6 est de préférence constitué d'un élément filiforme, notamment d'un fil en matériau thermoplastique. De manière alternative, on utilise une cordelette, un tube creux ou une chaînetteThe winding support 2, 6 preferably consists of a threadlike element, in particular a wire made of thermoplastic material. Alternatively, a cord, a hollow tube or a chain is used
Avantageusement, le dispositif comprend des moyens d'immobilisation 4, notamment un serre fil, aptes à permettre d'immobiliser le second moyen de fixation le long de la mèche, relativement au premier, lesdits moyens d'immobilisation 4 étant conçus de manière à immobiliser le second moyen de fixation à une distance du premier choisie en fonction du degré d'enroulement recherché. Une telle caractéristique permet d'éviter tout déroulement de la mèche traitée, et donc, de maintenir le degré d'enroulement de la mèche sur le support, de manière à ce que le bouclage obtenu présente exactement les caractéristiques requisesAdvantageously, the device comprises immobilization means 4, in particular a wire clamp, capable of making it possible to immobilize the second fixing means along the wick, relative to the first, said immobilization means 4 being designed so as to immobilize the second fixing means at a distance from the first chosen according to the degree of winding sought. Such a characteristic makes it possible to avoid any unwinding of the treated wick, and therefore, to maintain the degree of winding of the wick on the support, so that the loop obtained has exactly the required characteristics.
Lesdits premier 1 et second 3 moyens de fixation peuvent être constitués d'un élément déformable non élastiquement de manière réversible, ledit élément déformable étant constitué d'un fil, notamment d'un métal tel que le cuivre Ledit élément déformable est avantageusement disposé à l' intérieur d'un élément en matériau souple, notamment en mousse déformable élastiquement Une telle mousse permet d'éviter que la mèche ne soit marquée par le fil métalliqueSaid first 1 and second 3 fastening means may consist of a non-elastically deformable element reversibly, said deformable element consisting of a wire, in particular of a metal such as copper Said deformable element is advantageously disposed at the inside of an element made of flexible material, in particular elastically deformable foam. Such foam makes it possible to prevent the wick from being marked by the metal wire.
Avantageusement, le dispositif selon l'invention comprend un fil souple configuré de manière à définir une boucle à section variable constituant le premier moyen de fixation 5, ledit fil souple coulissant à l'intérieur d'un élément tubulaire formant ledit support d'enroulement 6, de manière à modifier la section de ladite boucle, un organe 7 monté à coulisse sur ledit élément tubulaire constituant le second moyen de fixation De préférence, ledit organe monte a coulisse 7 est conçu de manière a pouvoir être immobilise sur l'élément tubulaire 6 a une distance du premier moyen de fixation choisie en fonction du degré d'enroulement recherche L'immobilisation de l'organe coulissant 7 se fait, avantageusement, par serrage de ce dernier sur l'élément tubulaire 6Advantageously, the device according to the invention comprises a flexible wire configured so as to define a variable area loop constituting the first fixing means 5, said flexible wire sliding inside a tubular element forming said supporting winding 6 , so as to modify the section of said loop, a member 7 slidably mounted on said tubular element constituting the second fixing means Preferably, said sliding-mounted member 7 is designed so that it can be immobilized on the tubular element 6 at a distance from the first fixing means chosen as a function of the degree of winding sought. The immobilization of the sliding member 7 is advantageously made by clamping the latter on the tubular element 6
Les figures 1 , 2, 3 4 décrivent un exemple non limitatif de réalisation du dispositif selon l' invention et sa mise en oeuvreFigures 1, 2, 3 4 describe a non-limiting example of embodiment of the device according to the invention and its implementation
- La figure 1 représente un premier dispositif selon un mode de réalisation particulier de l'invention , - La figure 2 représente une vue en coupe d'un moyen de fixation de ce premier dispositif ,- Figure 1 shows a first device according to a particular embodiment of the invention, - Figure 2 shows a sectional view of a fastening means of this first device,
- La figure 3 illustre l'utilisation du dispositif représente aux figures 1 et 2 ,- Figure 3 illustrates the use of the device shown in Figures 1 and 2,
- La figure 3 illustre l'utilisation d'un deuxième dispositif selon un mode de réalisation particulier de l' invention- Figure 3 illustrates the use of a second device according to a particular embodiment of the invention
La figure 1 représente un dispositif selon un mode de réalisation particulier de l'invention II comprend un moyen de fixation 1 a une première extrémité d'un fil 2, et un autre moyen de fixation 3, a une seconde extrémité du fil, opposée a la première Le second moyen de fixation est identique au premier moyen 1FIG. 1 represents a device according to a particular embodiment of the invention II comprises a means of fixing 1 to a first end of a wire 2, and another means of fixing 3, to a second end of the wire, opposite to the first The second fixing means is identical to the first means 1
Ainsi qu'il apparaît clairement a la vue en coupe de la figure 2, le moyen de fixation 1 est compose d'un bloc de mousse fendu, notamment obtenu a partir d'une mousse de polymère a cellule fermée 1 1 et d'un fil de cuivre 1 2 dispose a l'intérieur du bloc de mousse Les extrémités 1 2 1 et 1 2 2 du fil de cuivre ont ete recourbées sur elles-mêmes, de manière a former un crochet apte a permettre la fixation d'une extrémité correspondante du fil 2As clearly appears in the sectional view of Figure 2, the fixing means 1 is composed of a split foam block, in particular obtained from a closed cell polymer foam 1 1 and a copper wire 1 2 placed inside the foam block The ends 1 2 1 and 1 2 2 of the copper wire have been bent over themselves, so as to form a hook capable of allowing the fixing of one end wire 2 correspondent
A titre indicatif, pour la réalisation du moyen de fixation 1, on utilise un morceau allonge de mousse de section diverse (ronde, carre, polygonale, de section diverse) dans laquelle on pratique une fente longitudinale s'etendant depuis une surface externe du bloc de mousse jusqu'à son axe longitudinal On introduit de la colle thermofusible, ou de contact, dans cette fente et on dispose la tige de cuivre 1 2 aux extrémités retournées La colle évite le retrait de la pièce en cuivre et l'introduction de liquide de permanente, qui pourrait réagir avec le cuivre.As an indication, for the realization of the fixing means 1, an elongated piece of foam of various section (round, square, polygonal, of various section) is used in which a longitudinal slit extending from an external surface of the block is practiced. foam to its longitudinal axis Is introduced to the hot melt glue, or contacting in this slot and has copper rod 1 2 in the upturned ends The adhesive prevents the removal of the copper part and the introduction of permanently liquid, which could react with the copper.
L'extrémité 1.2 2 de la tige de cuivre est reliée au fil par un nœud, par pincement, ou par collage ou soudure The end 2 of 1.2 the copper rod is connected to the wire by a knot, by pinching, or by gluing or welding
Le dispositif fonctionne comme suitThe device works as follows
Comme le montre la figure 3a. on sépare une mèche que l'on pince avec l'extrémité 1 pliée en deux. Le fil de cuivre interne conserve la pliure qui lui est conférée La mousse permet d'éviter que les cheveux soient marqués par les moyens de fixationAs shown in Figure 3a. a wick is separated and pinched with the end 1 folded in half. The internal copper wire keeps the fold which is given to it The foam prevents the hair from being marked by the fixing means
Comme le montre la figure 3b, on tresse la mèche de cheveux, après l'avoir séparée en deux brins, avec le fil 2 Arrivé en bout de mèche, on pince l'extrémité de la mèche ainsi tressée avec le deuxième moyen de fixation 3As shown in FIG 3b, braiding the hair strand, after having separated into two strands, with the wire 2 reaches the end of wick, the one gripper end of the braided wick and with the second fastening means 3
Le fil 2 étant de longueur plus importante que la longueur de la mèche (on peut prévoir entre 20 et 100 cm, voire plus), on peut le saisir au voisinage de l'endroit marque 2a, et faire remonter le second moyen de fixation en direction du premier, de manière à provoquer la formation de volutes (figure 3c) que l'on imbibera de produit pour permanenteThe wire 2 being of greater length than the length of the wick (it can be provided between 20 and 100 cm, or even more), it can be grasped in the vicinity of the place marked 2a, and bring up the second fixing means in direction of the first, so as to cause the formation of swirls (Figure 3c) which will be soaked with product for perm
Avantageusement, on utilise un serre fil 4 de manière à éviter une descente inopinée du moyen de fixation 3 le long du fil, pendant les manipulations sur les volutes de cheveux, et donc, un déroulement de la mèche faisant l'objet du traitementAdvantageously, a wire clamp 4 is used so as to avoid an unexpected descent of the fixing means 3 along the wire, during the manipulations on the volutes of hair, and therefore, an unwinding of the lock being treated.
La figure 4a représente un deuxième mode de réalisation d'un dispositif selon l'invention comprenant un premier moyen de fixation 5 formé par un fil souple définissant une boucle de section variable et un support d'enroulement 6 formé par un élément tubulaire, le fil souple coulissant à l'intérieur de l'élément tubulaire 6 lorsqu'un opérateur tire sur l'extrémité du fil souple opposée à la boucle4a shows a second embodiment of a device according to the invention comprising a first fastening means 5 formed by a flexible wire section defining a variable loop and a winding support 6 formed by a tubular member, the flexible wire sliding inside the tubular element 6 when an operator pulls on the end of the flexible wire opposite the loop
La section de la boucle est ajustée par l'opérateur de telle sorte que celle-ci serre la mèche de cheveux Cette mèche est ensuite séparée en deux brins qui sont tressés autour de l'élément tubulaire 6, comme le montre la figure 4bThe section of the loop is adjusted by the operator so that it tightens the lock of hair This lock is then separated into two strands which are braided around the tubular element 6, as shown in Figure 4b
La figure 4c montre l'utilisation d'un clip 7 monté à coulisse et immobilisé sur l'élément tubulaire 6 en fonction du degré d'enroulement recherchéFigure 4c shows the use of a clip 7 slidably mounted and immobilized on the tubular element 6 depending on the degree of winding sought
L'invention pourra être mieux comprise à l'aide de l'exemple non limitatif qui suit et qui constitue un mode de réalisation avantageux du procédé conforme à l'inventionThe invention can be better understood with the aid of the nonlimiting example which follows and which constitutes an advantageous embodiment of the process according to the invention
EXExMPLEEXAMPLE
On met en œuvre le procédé conforme à l'invention sur une personne ayant des cheveux naturels longs, de 40 cm de longueurThe method according to the invention is implemented on a person with long natural hair, 40 cm in length
Pour cela, on réalise sur cheveux lavés et essorés 8 nattes à 1 brin en utilisant 8 fils de polyéthylène de 2 mm de diamètre Pour chaque natte, le fil est noue en racine et enroulé en spires décalées autour de la mèche sélectionnée sur la quasi totalité de ladite mèche On maintient le fil fixe et tendu et on repousse la mèche vers le nœud du fil en racine On noue alors le fil à l'extrémité de la mèche repousséeFor this, 8 plaited 1-plait mats are used on washed and towel-dried hair using 8 polyethylene threads 2 mm in diameter. For each plait, the thread is tied at the root and wound in turns offset around the selected wick on almost all of said wick We keep the wire fixed and taut and we push the wick towards the knot of the root wire We then tie the wire at the end of the pushed back wick
On applique le réducteur de permanente DULCIA TONICA AHA® - Force cheveux naturels, commercialisé par la Demanderesse, et après un temps de pose de 15 minutes, on rince soigneusement puis on essore les cheveuxApply the permanent reducer DULCIA TONICA AHA® - Strength natural hair, marketed by the Applicant, and after an exposure time of 15 minutes, rinse thoroughly and then wring the hair
On applique le fixateur DULCIA TONICA AHA®, également commercialisé par la Demanderesse, on laisse poser 5 minutes et on rince les cheveux On enlève les fils et on sèche L'ondulation est de très bonne qualité, et ceci sur toute la longueur des cheveux. Apply the fixative DULCIA TONICA AHA®, also marketed by the Applicant, leave on for 5 minutes and rinse the hair. Remove the wires and dry. The waviness is of very good quality, and this over the entire length of the hair.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1 Procédé de déformation permanente des cheveux, utilisant une composition réductrice et une composition fixatrice de permanente, caractérisé par le fait qu'il comprend les opérations consistant à 1 Permanent hair deformation process, using a reducing composition and a perm fixing composition, characterized in that it comprises the operations consisting in :
- séparer les cheveux en mèches, et pour chaque mèche,- separate the hair into strands, and for each strand,
- attacher au moins un matériau filiforme en amont sur la mèche grâce à un moyen d'attache,- attach at least one thread-like material upstream to the wick by means of attachment,
- éventuellement, diviser la mèche en brins, - disposer le matériau filiforme autour de la mèche mono- ou multibrins et. ceci sur une longueur « x ».- optionally, divide the wick into strands, - arrange the filiform material around the single or multi-strand wick and. this over a length "x".
- maintenir le matériau filiforme fixe et tendu en aval de la mèche et repousser la mèche mono- ou multibrins vers le point d'attache en amont en la faisant glisser, le long du matériau filiforme, sur ladite longueur « x », - maintenir la mèche ainsi repoussée par un second moyen d'attache.- keep the filiform material fixed and tensioned downstream of the wick and push the single- or multi-strand wick towards the attachment point upstream by sliding it, along the filiform material, over said length "x", - maintain the wick thus repelled by a second attachment means.
2 Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé par le fait qu la mèche est une mèche monobrin et qu'on enroule le matériau filiforme en spirale autour de cette mèche2 Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the wick is a single strand and that the filiform material is wound in a spiral around this wick
3 Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé par le fait que la mèche est une mèche à deux brins et qu'on réalise une natte avec ces deux brins et le matériau filiforme3 Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the wick is a wick with two strands and that a mat is made with these two strands and the filiform material
4 Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé par le fait que la mèche est préalablement torsadée4 Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wick is twisted beforehand
5 Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé par le fait que le matériau filiforme est choisi parmi les fils, les ficelles, les cordes, les filins, les cordelettes, les chaînes, les chaînettes et les câbles, en matières naturelle, synthétique ou composite5 Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the filiform material is chosen from yarns, twines, cords, ropes, cords, chains, chains and cables, in natural, synthetic or composite materials
6 Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé par le fait que le matériau filiforme est un fil 6 Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the filiform material is a wire
7. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé par le fait que le matériau filiforme possède un diamètre compris entre 0J et 80 mm, et de préférence entre 0,2 et 30 mm.7. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the filiform material has a diameter between 0J and 80 mm, and preferably between 0.2 and 30 mm.
8. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes , caractérisé par le fait que les moyens d'attache sont choisis indépendamment l'un de l'autre parmi les nœuds, les clips, les élastiques et les pinces.8. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the attachment means are chosen independently of one another from the knots, the clips, the elastic bands and the clips.
9. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé par le fait que les moyens d'attache sont isolés du cheveu par un matériau intercalaire.9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the attachment means are isolated from the hair by an intermediate material.
10. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé par le fait que la composition réductrice comprend au moins un agent réducteur choisi parmi l'acide thioglycolique, l'acide thiolactique, la cystéine, la cystéamine et le thioglycolate de glycérol.10. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the reducing composition comprises at least one reducing agent chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine, cysteamine and glycerol thioglycolate.
11. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé par le fait que la composition fixatrice comprend au moins un agent oxydant choisi parmi le peroxyde d'hydrogène, le peroxyde d'urée, les bromates de métaux alcalins, les persels tels que les perborates et persulfates.11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fixing composition comprises at least one oxidizing agent chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates.
12. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que la composition réductrice comprend en outre au moins un agent alcalin, pouvant notamment être choisis parmi l'ammoniaque, la monoéthanolamine, la diéthanolamine, la triéthanolamine, l'isopropanolamine, la propanediamine-lJ, un carbonate de bicarbonate alcalin ou d'ammonium, un carbonate organique tel que le carbonate de guanidine ou encore un hydroxyde alcalin, utilisés seul ou en mélange.12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the reducing composition also comprises at least one alkaline agent, which can in particular be chosen from ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine , propanediamine-1J, an alkali bicarbonate or ammonium carbonate, an organic carbonate such as guanidine carbonate or an alkali hydroxide, used alone or as a mixture.
13. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé par le fait que la composition réductrice ou fixatrice contient, en outre, des additifs choisis parmi les tensioactifs , les silicones, des cires, des polymères, notamment des polymères canoniques, des épaississants, des agents de gonflement et de pénétration, des alcools gras, des dérivés de lanoline, des céramides, des ingrédients actifs, des agents anti-chute, anti-pelliculaires, des agents de mise en suspension, des agents séquestrants, des agents opacifiants, des colorants, des filtres solaires siliconés ou non, des conservateurs, des parfums.13. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the reducing or fixing composition contains, in addition, additives chosen from surfactants, silicones, waxes, polymers, in particular canonical polymers, thickeners , blowing and penetrating agents, alcohols fatty, lanolin derivatives, ceramides, active ingredients, anti-hair loss agents, anti-dandruff agents, suspending agents, sequestering agents, opacifying agents, dyes, sunscreens, silicone or not, preservatives, perfumes.
14. - Dispositif pour la réalisation de boucles dans la chevelure comprenant : a) un premier moyen de fixation (1,5) pour rendre le dispositif solidaire d'une mèche en un premier point ; b) un support d'enroulement (2,6), de forme allongée, et autour duquel ladite mèche est destinée à être enroulée, une première extrémité dudit support d'enroulement étant solidaire du premier moyen de fixation (1,5); c) un second moyen de fixation (3,7) destiné à l'accrochage du dispositif en un second point de ladite mèche, lesdits premier et second points de fixation délimitant une zone d'enroulement de la mèche sur ledit support.14. - Device for producing curls in the hair comprising: a) a first fixing means (1,5) to make the device integral with a wick at a first point; b) a winding support (2,6), of elongated shape, and around which said wick is intended to be wound, a first end of said winding support being integral with the first fixing means (1,5); c) a second fixing means (3,7) intended for hooking the device at a second point of said wick, said first and second fixing points delimiting a zone for winding the wick on said support.
15. - Dispositif selon la revendication précédente caractérisé en ce que le second moyen de fixation est solidaire d'une seconde extrémité du support d'enroulement (2,6).15. - Device according to the preceding claim characterized in that the second fixing means is integral with a second end of the winding support (2,6).
16. - Dispositif selon la revendication 14 ou 15 caractérisé en ce que le support d'enroulement (2,6) est constitué d'un élément filiforme, notamment d'un fil en matériau thermoplastique.16. - Device according to claim 14 or 15 characterized in that the winding support (2,6) consists of a threadlike element, in particular a wire of thermoplastic material.
17. - Dispositif selon l'une quelconque des revendications 14 à 16, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend des moyens d'immobilisation (4), notamment un serre fil, aptes à permettre d'immobiliser le second moyen de fixation le long de la mèche, relativement au premier, lesdits moyens d'immobilisation (4) étant conçus de manière à immobiliser le second moyen de fixation à une distance du premier choisie en fonction du degré d'enroulement recherché.17. - Device according to any one of claims 14 to 16, characterized in that it comprises immobilization means (4), in particular a wire clamp, capable of making it possible to immobilize the second fixing means along the wick, relative to the first, said immobilization means (4) being designed so as to immobilize the second fixing means at a distance from the first chosen as a function of the degree of winding sought.
18. - Dispositif selon l'une quelconque des revendications 14 à 17, caractérisé en ce que lesdits premier (1) et second (3) moyens de fixation sont constitués d'un élément déformable non élastiquement, de manière réversible. 19 - Dispositif selon la revendication 18, caractérisé en ce que ledit élément déformable est constitué d'un fil, notamment d'un métal tel que le cuivre18. - Device according to any one of claims 14 to 17, characterized in that said first (1) and second (3) fixing means consist of a non-elastically deformable element, reversibly. 19 - Device according to claim 18, characterized in that said deformable element consists of a wire, in particular of a metal such as copper
20 - Dispositif selon la revendication 18 ou 19, caractérisé en ce que ledit élément déformable est dispose à l'intérieur d'un élément en matériau souple, notamment en mousse déformable élastiquement20 - Device according to claim 18 or 19, characterized in that said deformable element is arranged inside an element of flexible material, in particular of elastically deformable foam
21 - Dispositif selon la revendication 14 caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend un fil souple configuré de manière à définir une boucle à section variable constituant le premier moyen de fixation (5), ledit fil souple coulissant à l'intérieur d'un élément tubulaire formant ledit support d'enroulement (6), de manière à modifier la section de ladite boucle, un organe (7) monté à coulisse sur ledit élément tubulaire constituant le second moyen de fixation21 - Device according to claim 14 characterized in that it comprises a flexible wire configured so as to define a variable section loop constituting the first fixing means (5), said flexible wire sliding inside a tubular element forming said winding support (6), so as to modify the section of said loop, a member (7) mounted to slide on said tubular element constituting the second fixing means
22 - Dispositif selon la revendication 21 caractérisé en ce que ledit organe monté à coulisse (7) est conçu de manière à pouvoir être immobilisé sur l'élément tubulaire (6) à une distance du premier moyen de fixation choisie en fonction du degré d'enroulement recherché.22 - Device according to claim 21 characterized in that said sliding mounted member (7) is designed so as to be able to be immobilized on the tubular element (6) at a distance from the first fixing means chosen according to the degree of winding sought.
23 - Dispositif selon la revendication 22 caractérisé en ce que l'immobilisation de l'organe coulissant (7) se fait par serrage de ce dernier sur l'élément tubulaire (6) 23 - Device according to claim 22 characterized in that the immobilization of the sliding member (7) is done by clamping the latter on the tubular element (6)
PCT/FR2000/001614 1999-06-11 2000-06-09 Method for permanent hair transformation and implementing device WO2000076358A1 (en)

Priority Applications (3)

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JP2001502712A JP2003502081A (en) 1999-06-11 2000-06-09 Method for making a new hairstyle with permanent and apparatus for performing the same
AU55417/00A AU5541700A (en) 1999-06-11 2000-06-09 Method for permanent hair transformation and implementing device
EP00940489A EP1191857A1 (en) 1999-06-11 2000-06-09 Method for permanent hair transformation and implementing device

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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FR9907430A FR2794621B1 (en) 1999-06-11 1999-06-11 PROCESS FOR PERMANENT DEFORMATION OF HAIR USING FILIFORM MATERIAL
FR99/07430 1999-06-11

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JP (1) JP2003502081A (en)
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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US7500487B2 (en) 2001-07-19 2009-03-10 Kao Corporation Hair treating implement

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Publication number Publication date
FR2794621A1 (en) 2000-12-15
EP1191857A1 (en) 2002-04-03
CN1355677A (en) 2002-06-26
JP2003502081A (en) 2003-01-21
AU5541700A (en) 2001-01-02
FR2794621B1 (en) 2001-08-24

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